Resumen de Numerical simulation of three-dimensional breaking waves on a gravel slope using a two-phase flow Navier�Stokes model

P. Higuera, M. del Jesus, J.L. Lara, Iñigo J. Losada , Yanira Guanche García

• Wave breaking is mainly a three-dimensional flow problem characterized by wave energy dissipation due to turbulence. The understanding of the wave breaking mechanism on a beach is essential in studying coastal processes. The complexity of the wave-induced turbulence flow is also increased by the presence of a two-phase flow, which introduces buoyancy effects. In this work a set of numerical experiments is carried out on wave breaking on a gravel slope. The influence of a one-phase and two-phase flow and the permeability effect of the beach are investigated numerically by means of a Navier�Stokes model known as IH-3VOF, which considers the volume-averaged Reynolds-averaged Navier�Stokes (VARANS) equations (del Jesus, 2011 [3]) to characterize the flow within the porous media. The accuracy of the VARANS equations is demonstrated by means of comparisons with laboratory data. The results are found to be within a 2% error in terms of wave height prior to the broken wave, and up to a 10% error after then, and in the order of 0.20 s in the time domain for the worst case. A further analysis of wave evolution on a permeable beach with alongshore variation of porosity is studied. Three-dimensional wave breaking and post-breaking wave transformations alongshore are analysed according to porosity values.